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Since Food Forum first aired on November 24, 1990, Fred and I have interviewed hundreds of cookbook writers. The following are my favorite cookbooks of the decade, each written by a guest of Food Forum.

 

Moreton's Favorite Cookbooks of the Year 2000.


Commander's Kitchen by Ti Marin and Jamie Shannon
Classic Creole recipes from a classic New Orleans eatery. The legendary Ella Brennan's daughter Ti Marin charms readers with Crescent City anecdotes, and chef Jamie Shannon shares useful cooking tips. For fans of the restaurant, now you can recreate such specialties as Sazerac Cocktail, Bread Pudding Souffle, and Ravigote Sauce. Food history buffs and New Orleans addicts should enjoy Ti's "Lagniappe" (short memoirs scattered throughout the book) even if they can't cook a lick.

Hot, Sour, Salty, Sweet-a Culinary Journey through Southeast Asia by Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid
Another book that will entertain you for hours curled up in an easy chair. Much more than a recipe book, Hot, Sour… is truly a cultural guide to this exotic region. With its gorgeous photos, intriguing recipes, we'll be surprised if it doesn't earn a James Beard award by year's end.

Not Afraid of Flavor by Ben and Karen Barker
Magnolia Grill's best recipes by Durham's own husband and wife team, both award-winning chefs. Now we know their secrets! One of the charms of the book is the photography revealing the Barkers and their staff behind the scene at their highly photogenic restaurant.

In and Out of the Kitchen in Fifteen Minutes or Less by Ann Willan
Willan, founder of French cooking school La Varenne, has authored several formidable cookbooks including French Regional Cooking. This little book meets the needs of us busy folk who love to eat well, but aren't willing to invest hours cooking labor intensive dishes. Lots of simple, appealing recipes such as Tuna Steak Marchand de Vin, Scallop Salad with Cumin Dressing, and Tipsy Bread and Butter Pudding using pure ingredients-no canned cream of mushroom soup in sight!

Julia Child's Kitchen Wisdom by Julia Child
If my cookbook collection burned, I would immediately buy two books: The Joy of Cooking and this little jewel. This simply written book is for the experienced cook who needs a reminder for recreating favorite French classics. Written in prose, this is more a cooking tune-up than a cookbook, and condenses all Julia's previous books into one short volume. A thorough index adds to its usefulness. A brilliant concept! Thank you, Julia!

Kitchen Confidential-Adventures in the Culinary Underbelly by Anthony Bourdain
Although Kitchen Confidential is not a cookbook, you will find some useful information and a few tricks of the restaurant trade. Mostly, Bourdain writes about his bawdy and bizarre misadventures along the path to becoming executive chef at New York's Brasserie Les Halles. Definitely not for the squeamish, but if you are curious about the life behind your favorite restaurant's kitchen doors…well, maybe you shouldn't read this after all. Having worked in the restaurant demimonde for years, I loved the book, thought it wickedly funny, and couldn't put it down.

 
Butter Beans to Blackberries: Recipes from the Southern Garden by Ronni Lundy
Never fear, carnivores, Ms. Lundy is a real Southerner who still uses plenty of fatback, hamhock, and bacon grease with her veggies. This is a charming book featuring essays about Southern food as well as recipes for classics such as Frogmore stew and peach ice cream. Ms. Lundy's love of the South and her vivacious, engaging personality spill out of every page. MN

Shuck Bean, Stack Cakes, and Honest Fried Chicken
by Ronni Lundy
Ms. Lundy's first cookbook combines food stories and recipes with the comments of country singers. A quirky idea that works. This is an entertaining, happy read for cooks and food history lovers. MN

International:

Marcella Cucina by Marcella Hazan
If you love Mama Marcella's unfussy style, you'll love her new book, just as simple, earthy and accessible as her first, The Classic Italian Cookbook. In my opinion, Marcella reigns supreme in Italy.

The Splendid Table
by Lynne Rossetto Kasper
A detailed culinary tour of Lynne's beloved Emiglio-Romana region of Italy. These recipes use loads of balsamic vinegar and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, tend to be rich which is typical of the region's food. Lynne's historical references and interesting details make this and all her books a special treat for travel bugs as well as cooks.

Food from my Heart: Cuisines of Mexico Remembered and Reimagined
by Zorela Martinez
Zorela is to Mexico as Lynne Kasper is to Italy. They are both connoisseurs, historians and each has a passionate love for her country. Zorela's personal remembrances are magical, her recipes, irresistible. Don't be intimidated by the ingredients. Most are available in the many tiendas popping up in the Triangle area.

Patricia Wells Cooking at Home in Provence by Patricia Wells
Francophile that I am, I'm crazy about this book with its photographs of markets and scenes from the area near Patrician's home in Vaison-La Romaine. For those of you who want more of an introduction to simple French cooking, Pat's Bistro Cooking may be a good start. Patricia Wells' Tratoria is its Italian counterpart.

General:

Dean and Deluca Cookbook by David Rosengarten
If I had to limit myself to 10 cookbooks, this one would make the list. David's 400 international recipes are presented intelligently, thoroughly, and include international classics such as Seviche, Saurbraten, and Osso Bucco Milanese. Possible drawback: ingredients can be hard to find if you don't live near a Dean and Deluca or a comparably sophisticated food source. No baking recipes in this book-you're expected to buy baked goods at D&D!

Vegetarian:

The Modern Vegetarian Kitchen by Peter Berley with Melissa Clark (ReganBooks, October 2000, $35)
"Peter Berley cooks with an artist's touch and a philosopher's passion...the enthusiasm here is contagious."says Public TV's Mollie Katzen. Berley's simple elegant recipes such as Spicy Mustard Greens with Cumin, Spinach-Mushroom Quiche, and Braised Red Cabbage with Apples inspire me to
go home and start cooking. This book would definitely catch my eye in a book store and would be a great gift for health conscious gourmets.

Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone by Deborah Madison
Deborah co-authored the veggie classic "Greens Cookbook." This time, her recipes are less complicated, and her range is broader. This book is not just for vegetarians, but the recipes are so scrumptious, you could give up meat painlessly. Her salad chapter alone is worth the price of the book.

Red, White and Greens
by Faith Willinger
Faith's charming book is a perfect gift for veggie lovers. History, lore, and recipes for each vegetable, this book stimulates both the appetite and provides fascinating information to share at the table.

Pasta y Verdura
by Jack Bishop
After tasting Pasta with Arugula, Walnuts and Goat Cheese, I had to have this book. Turns out Jack Bishop had appeared several times on the show representing Cooks Illustrated Magazine and has written several other interesting cookbooks. P & V's chapters are organized alphabetically according to vegetable, and no recipe takes more than ½ hour to make. Healthy, easy, delicious food, the perfect summer cookbook.

American Regional:

Coyote Café by Mark Miller
If you've dined in Santa Fe, or the Red Sage in D.C., or just enjoy eating chile peppers, you'll enjoy this book by the inventor of Santa Fe style cuisine.

Miami Spice
by Steven Raichlin
Before Steven became a barbecue baron, he fused Caribbean, and Latin cuisine to create his own Florida style. If you are interested in tropical food and great fish dishes, you will enjoy Miami Spice.

My Mother's Southern Kitchen
by James Villas
James Villas, former food editor of Town and Country magazine, has gone back to his Southern roots with this charming cookbook featuring old fashioned Southern classics. He brings his colorful mama to life with anecdotes about when and where the recipes were served.

Chef Paul Prudhomme's Louisiana Kitchen
by Paul Prudhomme
This jewel of a cookbook is full of traditional Creole and Cajun food, "kicked up a notch" with Paul's loving suggestions and creativity. If you enjoy dining in New Orleans you will love this book, definitely on my top ten list.

Recipe Hall of Fame Dessert Cookbook: Winning Recipes from Hometown America by Gwen McKee and Barbara Moseley Quail Ridge Press, $17.
Gwen and Barbara began their cookbook writing career by collecting recipes from books published by small town non-profit organizations in Mississippi. "Best of the Best from Missippi" was followed by collections from several other states. This collection in the "Best of the Best" series includes classic recipes from every corner of the country. Favorites are Georgia Peanut Brittle, Chocolate Dumplings, and Italian Cream Cake. Good
old-fashioned sweet treats for the insulin unimpared.

Food History and Lore:

The American Century Cookbook by Jean Anderson
Ever wonder about the history of peanut butter, Jell-O, Bisquick? All the answers are here including hundreds of recipes we all grew up with. Useful as a cookbook, but even more fun as cultural history, this book is a unique gem.

Eating in Italy
by Faith Willinger
Forget about Fodors, Michelin, and Frommers. This is THE book to take on a trip to Italy if you love to eat well.

Food Lover's Guide to Paris
by Patricia Wells
Ditto for this book, although it may be a bit dated by now.

Diet:

More Healthy Homestyle Cooking: Family Favorites You'll Make Again and Again
by Evelyn Tribole. Rodale Press. $24.95.
Like most of Rodale Press's books, this one is heavy on nutritional facts and reminds me a little of a text book for seventh grade home economics. However, I found the book appealing because of the inclusion of old classics such as Mulligitawny Soup, and Senate Bean soup, minus the fat. Not for the C.I.A. crowd, but a helpful source of fast, healthy food ideas for the everyday cook with a hungry family to feed. MN

The Gourmet Prescription by Deborah Chud
Sophisticated recipes, low-fat yet delicious and simple to cook.

The French Culinary Institute's Salute to Healthy Cooking
by André Soltner, et al.
French favorites reinterpreted for cholesterol conscious cooks.

Miscellaneous

Kitchen Confidential: Adventures in the Culinary Underbelly by Daniel Bourdain
After relishing an excerpt in the New Yorker called "Don't Eat Before Reading This" I've lusted after this delightfully decadent memoir. Now that it's mine, I'm in love. Bourdin, a New York chef, describes the book as "twenty-five years of sex, drugs, bad behavior and haute cuisine." If you've ever been curious about what goes on behind the kitchen door in restaurants, this is the real story. Not for the squeamish. MN

Buy me for the Pictures, not the Recipes:

The Inn at Little Washington Cookbook by Patrick O'Connell
Difficult recipes, but gorgeous photographs, this is a vicarious trip to O'Connell's famously decadent Inn.

Cookbook Favorites, 2001 

Elegant Irish Cooking by Noel C. Cullen
Until I encountered this beautiful book, my idea of Irish cuisine was Colcannon and Irish stew. Not any more!
Elegant Irish Cooking is a picture laden tour of the island's best restaurant kitchens where a new breed of French-trained and California-influenced chefs have changed the culinary landscape of the island. Buy this book for the spectacular photographs of the Irish countryside, as well as for the scrumptious recipes featuring salmon, lamb, seafood, and , of course, potatoes.

Mediterranean Grains and Greens by Paula Wolfert
Truly a culinary scholar, "the mistress of the Mediterranean" gives us a historical and agricultural tour of the region as well as recipes for such exotic dishes as Winter Squash Pilaf with Bulgar and Egyptian Koshery. This book is a valuable record of dishes that are fast disappearing as progress and prosperity change cooking habits of the Mediterranean world. Wolfert makes these recipes accessible by suggesting North American substitutes for farro, Tuscan kale, tart purslane and other unfamiliar grains and vegetables.

Slow Cooker Cooking by Lora Brody
Lora Brody, author of dozens of cookbooks including
The Kitchen Survival Guide, will compel you to search for that old avocado green, flowered crockpot you haven't seen since your last change of residence. I may have to buy a new snazzy model for these sophisticated recipes. Cipollini Mashed Potatoes, Braised Duck with Bowtie Pasta, Braised Lamb Shanks with Garlic and Rosemary, Horseradish Pot Roast, and Chickpea Stew are just a few of the irresistible sounding dishes in this inspirational little book.

Julia's Kitchen Wisdom by Julia Child
As I told the incomparable Julia on our October 24 show, if I had to choose one book to keep out of all the cookbooks in my collection, it would be this little jewel. Not a traditional cookbook, this volume is mostly kitchen notes, and formulas for those basic dishes we all love.
Julia's Kitchen Wisdom is not aimed at detail-oriented cooks, but if you have experience and imagination, and just need a refresher for traditional cooking technique, you will appreciate the practical perspective of this well-thought out book.


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