Wandering with Moreton:
San Francisco and the Bay Area

One of the most beautiful and unique cities in my traveling experience, I found it impossible not to leave my heart in San Francisco. I find myself returning to retrieve that old heart repeatedly, only to lose it there again. If your idea of travel paradise is a city with a spectacular natural setting, a fascinating history, unique ethnic neighborhoods, truly great restaurants, plenty of interesting museums, great shopping, and mild weather-even in mid-summer, then this is the place. You can spend weeks happily exploring San Francisco and the Bay area, branching out to the Wine Country, Berkeley, and the Monterey Peninsula without running out of interesting things to do and see.

For you wanderers who are limited to only a few days in this gorgeous spot, I suggest the following short excursions. The city has so much to offer, that just deciding where to start is a tremendous challenge. The following "Top Six" destinations are each manageable in half a day. They are all places I never tire of visiting. My descriptions leave out crucial details such as phone numbers and addresses. For those, and maps of city streets, consult a good Bay Area guidebook such as Doring Kindersley Travel Guide (formerly known as Eyewitness), or the delightful Irreverant Guide to San Francisco published by Frommer's.

1. Bus tour of the city
Although the tour I took (Gray Line) may not have been the best choice for historical information, an overview of the city whets your appetite for more detailed explorations. This 3 hour long morning tour covered most of the neighborhoods and important landmarks of San Francisco. We also took in the stunning scenic panorama visible from Twin Peaks, where a 360 degree view of the city will take your breath away.

2. California Palace of the Legion of Honor
For a preview of this lovely museum, watch the Hitchcock classic Vertigo. Here is the place where Jimmy Stewart discovered Kim Novak gazing at her grandmother's portrait. Positioned spectacularly in Lincoln Park, this museum is worth a trip even if you don't set foot inside. But try to tear yourself away from the awesome views of the Pacific and the Bay because this collection of European art dating from Medieval times is magnificent.

3. Haight Street
The original Hippytown-I found this lively neighborhood fascinating. Hang out with the natives at local coffee houses, browse through the vintage rock concert posters, and millions of jazz and rock CD's at funky Amoeba Records. Check out the "tobacco" shops. It's not hard to imagine the scene of the 60's here-bell bottom clad youths are everywhere, but the Afro hairstyles have been supplanted by day-glow spikes. Warning: if you grew up before the late sixties, or are easily nauseated by body piercing, skip this "trip."

4. Sausalito and the Golden Gate Bridge or Tiberon by ferry
If you have access to a car, don't miss the residential community of Sausalito via the Golden Gate Bridge. We stopped at Vista Point and walked across the bridge and back just for the thrill of it. Take the next exit along Route 101 to Sausalito. The highlight of Sausalito is the small quaint houses and private gardens in the hills above Bridgeway Boulevard. Driving through the winding residential areas peeking through garden gates at lush clusters of bougainvilla, agapanthus and other exotic West Coast flowers was a treat. Walk along Bridgeway for quaint galleries and cafes, and, of course the marvelous view of the city across the bay.
If you don't have a car, skip Sausalito and take the ferry to the neighboring village of Tiberon. Right off the landing is a terrific Mexican restaurant, Guaymus, where you can sit outside, sip Margaritas and enjoy watching the sailboats float around the bay with the city skyline in the distance.

5. Union Square and SFMOMA
Lively Union Square has it all-street musicians in the park, trolleycars clanging on the street, bustling shoppers headed to and from Macy's, Neiman-Marcus, or Saks. Walk around the square window shopping, check out the boutiques on Maiden Lane, then kiss the big stores goodby and stroll south of Market on Third Street to the San Francisco Museum of Art. Take the audio tour of the permanent collection or see interesting temporary exhibits. The museum's Caffe Museo offers excellent pastas and sandwiches if you prefer a quick inexpensive meal. For a more leisurely lunch (you deserve it after all that walking) retrace your steps to Union Square and indulge yourself at Kuleto's on Powell Street, or the posh Postrio around the corner on Post. On the way drop by the historic Westin St. Francis Hotel (if you aren't lucky enough to stay there) and ride the glass elevator up to the top for a sighting of the Square, the Financial District and Bay Bridge in the distance.

6. Chinatown and North Beach
Chinatown is only a couple of blocks northwest of Union Square. Walk east on Post to Grant Street, turn left and two short blocks up the street enter Chinatown through the gate. We loved just wandering through this Asian wonderland, occasionally entering an Oriental cooking supply store, or one of the markets-vegetable, fish or flea. This is the place to shop for souvenirs. Deals on jewelry, trinkets, and cookware abound as you walk farther away from the gate. Keep your ears open for the sounds of Chinese musicians or the Green Street Marching Band, which precedes funeral processions through the streets of this enchanting part of town.
As you reach Columbus Street on the north edge of Chinatown, you notice a drastic atmospheric shift. Suddenly store signs are in English again. You're now in North Beach, the old Italian neighborhood and spawning ground of the Beat generation. I loved the old beat hangout City Lights Bookstore and could have browsed there forever. Drop by the Vesuvio Café, another beat landmark before dining at one of the Italian "garlic" restaurants, the Stinking Rose or Rose Pistola.. We enjoyed the more expensive and highbrow Italian establishment nearby, the North Beach Restaurant, but the funkier Italian cafes are more fun and typical of laid-back North Beach style.

More Excursions:

Lombard Street-If you are traveling by car, treat yourself to a cheap thrill by driving "the crookedest street in the world."

The Mexican Museum at Fort Mason- While you're there, don't miss dinner nearby at the mother of all vegetarian restaurants, Greens, for terrific food and one of the best views of the Golden Gate Bridge.

The Exploratorium at the Palace of Fine Arts- Best museum gift shop in town.

Golden Gate Park's museums and Japanese teahouse.

The drive north along Route 1- California's ruggedly gorgeous coastline road passes through the Enchanted Forest with its fragrant huge eucalyptus trees. Sample the local specialty barbecued oysters at Olema. From there you can cut across to Sonoma County.

Sonoma and Napa Counties, "the Wine Country"- Beautiful rural drive features vineyards where you can drop in and taste the wines made right there. Let yourself wander through lovely winding backroads reminiscent of the Tuscan Chianti region. No matter how far off the beaten track you drive, you are never far from one of the dozens of incredible restaurants scattered throughout the area. We particularly enjoyed Bouchon in Yontville, Della Santini's courtyard dining in the town of Sonoma, and Auberge du Soleil for the setting and the view of hillside vineyards. Our favorite was the small, hospitable Benziger Family Vineyard near Glen Ellen. Avoid wasting time in the big corporate, sterile vineyards like Gloria Ferrer in Calistoga. A friend's quote, "Napa is to Sonoma as Gucci pumps are to cowboy boots," was right on the button. I preferred the cowboy boots.

Restaurants in San Francisco worth a special trip:

Betelnut (Asian), Hawthorne Lane (California/French fine dining), Fringale (small, cozy Basque Bistro), and the touristy but classic Yank Sing (dim sum) if you don't mind a wait.

Don't bother:

Tourist traps, Ghirardelli Square and Fisherman's Wharf, unless you like crowds and lots of tee-shirt shops.

The famous Stars Restaurant, whose star has crashed and burned since the departure of former owner/chef Jeremiah Towers.

Nob Hill. Riding through this area on the bus tour should be enough. Don't make a special effort to get there. Though the hotels and restaurants up here are posh, the location is deceptively remote, considering the slope of Nob Hill, which really should be called Nob Mountain. Don't go out of your way to the famous Top of the Mark for drinks unless you are staying at the elegant Mark Hopkins Hotel or the other deluxe hotels nearby. Though the view is spectacular, I suggest riding the elevator in the St. Francis or climb up Telegraph Hill to Coit Tower instead for the most romantic view of the bay and distant hills. The latter is not for the faint of heart. If you're out of shape, take a cab.

Research:

There are lots of terrific movies set in or near San Francisco. Rent some at your local video store to get in the mood for your trip. Her are some of my favorites: Vertigo, Pacific Heights, Bullit, The Presidio, The Rock, Mrs.Doubtfire, What's Up, Doc, Dirty Harry, Jagged Edge, Play Misty for Me (set in Carmel), The Birds (set in Bodega Bay).

Planning a Trip to Europe:
Do's and Don'ts
(click here to view our suggested travel guide books)

DO use a travel agent for transportation reservations. If you are online, the temptation is to do it all yourself. After I cruised the internet for days trying to find "deals," I finally turned this chore over to my travel agent who got a much better airline ticket price than I could, and solved the potentially expensive problem of flying into one country, leaving from another. I also wasted hours calling to compare prices of car rental companies for European travel. The travel agent made these reservations for us at about half the price I was quoted, and clued me in on hidden penalties such as the drop-off fee, sometimes as much as $300, depending on the border crossed.

DON'T use the travel agency for finding small, unique places to stay. Go to the travel section of your favorite bookstore and browse through guide such as "Charming Bed and Breakfasts in France" or, my favorite, "Karen Brown's Inns and Itineraries." After you've made a choice, the travel agency can make the reservation for you with the phone number you give her. Some of the most wonderful places to stay are not on line, and require a reservation to be confirmed by fax. Your agent can do this for you and save you time and the cost of oversees calls and faxes.

DO refer to periodicals such as Gourmet, and Conde Nast Traveler in planning your trip. Old Gourmet magazines were a gold mine of information for me. These in-depth travel articles emphasize the best sights and eats in each focus town or region. At the end of each article Gourmet lists names, phone numbers and addresses, and price ranges of each restaurant or inn mentioned.

DON'T sacrifice location for charm when visiting a place where you want to see specific sights. The beauty and luxury of our hotel in Florence could not compensate for the distance we had to travel to see the churches and museums on our agenda. In contrast, the tiny austere room we had in Venice was so well situated we didn't mind that we had to crawl over our suitcase to get in bed!

DON'T set too many goals for yourself. By the time I got to Europe my head was full of so much information and wishful thinking, I overestimated what I could manage each day. We also spent too much time trekking miles to find specific restaurants described glowingly by food writers when the little bistro next door to the hotel was perfectly delightful.

DO be flexible about changing plans. Allow yourself room for spontaneity and adventure. The most wonderful surprise we had was a tiny, inexpensive trattoria recommended by a lady at a coffee store in a small village in Italy. No tourists in sight and we were treated like family.

DO take an up-to-date guidebook, which lists closing days of museums, sights, and restaurants. If your guidebook is more than three years old, time to delegate it to the souvenir shelf. Searching for places that no longer exist, and showing up at museums on closing day is just plain frustrating no matter where you are.

DO make an attempt to learn a little of the language of the country you plan to visit. If you are familiar with the language, refresh your memory. I bought Berlitz tapes, which I played in the car.
I also rented French movies with subtitles, just to tune up my ear for the language. It helped me adjust to hearing French very quickly once I got there. For languages you don't understand, take a small dictionary for the essentials: please, thank you, what's the price, and where's the bathroom.

DON'T take too many clothes, or heavy books. Pack lightly, then force yourself to take half of that out! Unless you plan to dine at three star restaurants, dressy attire is not required or expected nowadays in Europe. Better to use some of that suitcase space for a paperback or two. It's hard to find English language in Europe. I thoroughly enjoyed the books I picked up in the used bookstore in the airport, and simply left them behind when I finished.

DO take comfortable, broken-in shoes, and a few band-aids for blisters!

DO take trains whenever possible. Trains are the least expensive, least stressful way to travel in Europe. They are clean, roomy, and comfortable. You can just relax and read or watch the scenery go by.

DON'T forget to change money as soon as you enter a country. Be aware that you have to pay for drinking water, and sometimes, public bathrooms. I was thoroughly unhinged when, at the train station in Montpelier, France, the bathroom attendant refused my Spanish pesetas. I was forced to stand in the exchange line a half hour to get the correct currency to gain entrance to the bathroom. Not a pleasant welcome to France!

BetterLiving's Guide to Travel Guidebooks

There are dozens of terrific guidebooks available in the large chain bookstores, and even more choices in travel bookstores. It's tempting to fritter away a good portion of your travel budget collecting more fascinating books than you need. Here are the ones I found most useful:

Eyewitness (now called DK) Travel Books
The most beautiful of the guidebooks: gorgeous photos, and a feature I especially appreciate-traditional foods of the region with pictures of each dish. Great for dreaming about all the possibilities and developing your overall travel plan. These books are so visually compelling, you'll keep them on the coffee table long after the trip is over.

Karen Brown's Inns and Itineraries
Unusual, quaint places to stay, and well researched itineraries including appropriate estimates of time needed for each sight. Excellent for daily planning, oriented toward beautiful country sites and drives.

Rough Guide
If I were limited to taking only one guidebook, this would be it. Loads of history, art history and geological information about each region, town or village. Includes restaurants and hotel information, addresses, and closing dates of each location described. Quirky and opinionated, these guides steer you to off-beat little places and away from sterile tourist traps. Another unique feature of Rough Guides: listings at the back of movie and book recommendations for your own research.

Access Guide
This is the guide to take if you are focusing on one large city, especially if you are on foot. Detailed maps target specific areas of each city. Access describes interesting destinations, street by street, including restaurants and hotels. Since all site are numbered, and each category has a distinct color, it is impossible to get lost or miss anything using this guide. Warning: if you only have a day or so in a city, you can get bogged down with all the details Access offers.

Others: Michelin, Fodors, Frommers, Berlitz, Cadogan

Note: The Michelin Guide, formerly my favorite, seems out of date nowadays. Locations are listed in alphabetical order, making it cumbersome to use if you travel from one small village to another. Guides which lead you sequentially from region to region, and town to town within each region, make more sense to me both for planning and to use for information as you travel.

A Perfect Day in Charleston
with Moreton

Between Washington and New Orleans, I can't think of city as fascinating or as beautiful as Charleston, South Carolina. To me it ranks with San Francisco, Boston, and Santa Fe as one of the most magnetic travel destinations in our country. Like these other intriquing cities, Charleston meets, in its own unique way, my qualifications for a memorable vacation: great food, charming places to stay, loads of history, gorgeous scenery, more tours and cultural events than you can possibly take in, and friendly people, to boot.

There are more Charleston websites available online than you can shake a stick at, so I won't attempt to offer you the long lists of tourist attractions you can find on www.charlestontraveler.com and other sites. Instead, let me take you on a tour of my favorite Charleston haunts, all of which you can visit in one day.

Of all the special places to stay in Charleston, my first choice would be, ironically, not in the city. I would, and do, stay across Charleston Harbor on Sullivan's Island in an old house of great character and warmth. This particular house, which overlooks historic Fort Sumter, is owned by Margaret Skinner and is now available for rent by the week ( call Margaret at 942-7528 for information). Stay there if you possibly can. After a few hours you will never want to leave.

For a memorable day in Charleston, whether it's the first of many or your only chance to explore the city, I recommend rising early enough to get to town before the tourist crunch starts around ten. Have an early breakfast on the house's screen porch facing the bay. Over coffee, you'll be entertained by watching the colorful boats, varying from huge container ships to tiny shrimping vessels, drift by as they enter the port of Charleston.

Pull yourself away from the view, and drive across the Cooper River Bridge into the city. Take Meeting Street down to the High Battery. Park and tour the Calhoun Mansion or the Edmondson-Alston House nearby for a sample of ante bellum Southern opulence. After wandering around gazing at the spectacular houses surrounding this area, drive up East Bay and turn left onto Queen Street. Park in the lot behind the Mills Hyatt House. Check out this gorgeous historic hotel, stopping to enjoy a libation in the courtyard, before sauntering past elaborately planted window boxes on the way to 82 Queen down the street. Enjoy shrimp and grits or crabcakes under the trees before wandering up King Street. Take time to browse the fascinating antique stores along the way. Stroll through the slave market on the way to the 3:30 p.m. Grey Line Harbor Cruise. After the cruise, walk a block to High Cotton where the best jazz performers in the city play in the early evening. Fill your ears there, then fill your belly at Peninsula Grill at the Planters Inn, another picturesque block away. After sampling Chef Robert Palmer's incomparable cooking served in a luscious velvet-walled dining room, you should be thoroughly in love with this beguiling town.

Driving back to your Sullivan Island getaway, notice the lights of Charleston sparkling in the distance. At home, settle into an old wicker rocker on the porch, enjoy a nightcap, and watch the evening boats float into the harbor before bedtime.

A Perfect Day in Atlanta

Atlanta is indisputably the capital of the New South, a model of development that other growing Southern cities, such as Birmingham and Charlotte, strive to emulate. Though younger, and until recently, culturally less diverse than tourist magnets New Orleans and Charleston, the city throbs with energy. Atlanta lacks the patina of a long history, but its sophisticated aura and the graciousness of friendly natives make the city an appealing vacation spot.

First called Marthaville after its founder's daughter, Atlanta was established as a railroad center connecting the Tennessee and Chattahoochee Rivers in the 1830's. By the Civil War, the city (by then called Atlanta, Martha's middle name) had become the munitions and transportation center of the Confederacy. Because of its importance to the cause of secession, the city was burned to ashes in 1864 by U.S. General Sherman as all "Gone with the Wind" fans remember.

Only five years after the war, Atlanta had been rebuilt and began the remarkable growth that has made it one of this continent's ten largest and most vital cities. There is so much to do and see (and buy!) in this hoppin' town, I can't begin to list the choices. Instead, I'll give you my own recommendations for a perfect day in Atlanta.

Admittedly, my plan will not appeal to everyone in the family. For those of you who may not enjoy art, history, or shopping, check the suggestions offered at the end of this article. As my host, a proud Georgian, said, "If you can't find something fun to do in Hotlanta, you just ain't trying!"

I suggest beginning the day downtown at the Coca-Cola Museum, and spend an hour or so admiring American marketing ingenuity. The place is so appealing in a Disneyesque way that you hardly notice you've shelled out six bucks to pay for what amounts to a clever promotion of caffeinated sugar water! However, the museum is great fun and teaches you all about the history of Coke, invented in the 1880's by an Atlanta pharmacist. Don't skip the best part: a sampling of products at the end of the tour including such exotic thirst-quenchers as Mandarin Orange Crush, Diet Thai, and South African Ginger Beer.

After the "pause that refreshes," drive north on Peachtree to the architecturally significant High Museum of Art building. Inside, the visiting exhibits are always interesting (we saw Degas's Early Years), and the prestigious permanent collection is worth the trip.

A few more blocks up the road, stop for a good Southern American lunch at Mick's followed by a stroll down adjoining Bennet Street, the New South's answer to Portobello Road, for antiquing in wonderful small shops and galleries.

In the heart of Buckhead's lush residential district, visit the Swan House, a 1928 Georgian mansion. There you can tour two historic houses including the Smith plantation home, its gardens, nature trails, and the fascinating Atlanta Historic Center. After your house viewing and garden stroll, take a break at the Swan Coach House for dessert and coffee. Then tackle the Center where history buffs will enjoy the most comprehensive Civil War exhibit in the South. For us sissies, there was a terrific display of Mrs. Jean Storey's opulent wardrobe dating from the nineteen twenties, and an extensive folk art gallery.

If you are lucky enough to visit Atlanta in summer as we were, the best possible way to spend an evening is in Chastain Park's stone outdoor amphitheater. In this small stadium surrounded by woods, you can wine and dine on Proof of the Pudding's delicious picnic fare with the genteel Buckhead audience, and feast your ears on the music du jour. The Atlanta Symphony plays in this lovely venue two or three times each week for the season. For pop and rock music lovers there is a weekly series featuring such artists as Kenny Loggins, the Moody Blues, the Four Tops, the Temptations, Ray Charles, and the Allman Brothers.

Should the Chastain Park concert be rained out, an alternative for foodies should include one of the excellent restaurants of the newly upscale Warehouse District. The highly touted Bacchanalia offers a luxurious prix fix dinner served in a ontemporary setting. If you prefer fewer courses, try the equally snazzy Floataway Café. Both these outstanding eateries offer innovative American fare to savor as you review the day's adventures.

Another perfect day for me would include browsing the upscale retail stores at Lenox Square stopping for lunch at Prime, antiquing on Miami Circle, mummy viewing at Emory University's Michael C. Carlos Museum, and strolling around Virginia Highlands (the "Berkeley" of Atlanta) followed by a seafood dinner at Harvest or a steak at Highland Taps.

For dad and the kids, here are just a few suggestions: Stone Mountain, CNN studio tour, the Varsity restaurant downtown - self-billed as the world's largest drive-in restaurant, the Raptor House at Grant Park Zoo, neighboring Cyclarama, Emory's Natural History Museum, and of course, a Braves' game.

One day is not nearly enough to sample all the local enticements. Plan to spend four or five days here just to cover the basics, absorb the energy, and discover why Atlanta calls itself " the city too busy to hate."

A Perfect Day in Chicago

After all the TV shows I've seen depicting Chicago as one enormous crime-ridden slum, I was pleasantly surprised to discover a stunningly beautiful, manageable city. Real-life Chicagoans appear to be happy, hospitable, and justly proud of their town. A sense of fun pervades the city in summer. Colorful flower beds, reputedly designed by Mayor Daly's wife, line the streets. Whimsically decorated concrete chairs appear on almost every corner, a continuation of the city's famous painted cow extravaganza of 1999. Now apparently a tradition, this art experiment imbues the streets with an upbeat, festive ambiance. You see a lot of smiling faces in Chicago.

"The Windy City" is more commonly known these days as "Second City." Most folks wrongly assume this nickname is a bit derogatory, implying second class status compared to glitzier New York. In many ways, though, Chicago is a case of "less is more." Chicago is certainly less frenetic, less stressful, and less difficult to maneuver than the Big Apple, but these minuses add up to a big plus. What Chicago lacks in edginess and glamour, it makes up for in ease. The feel of the city is relaxed, clean, and accessible.

The sobriquet "Second City" actually has nothing to do with a chip on the city's "broad shoulders". The great fire of 1870, which destroyed most of the city, left a blank canvas that has since been filled with the most innovative and beautiful buildings in the world. The new city, the phoenix that arose from the ashes, is the "second city" built on the original sight, a settlement established in the early 1800's by a trader named Pointe du Sable. The village did not prosper until 1830 when the U.S. government's plan of a canal to link the Mississippi with the Great Lakes inspired hordes of eager entrepreneurs to flock to this suddenly auspicious location. By the year of the fire, Chicago was a thriving community of several hundred thousand citizens.

After the devastation, ambitious architects were drawn to Chicago for their opportunity to participate in building what these pioneers must have envisioned as the quintessential modern American city. Louis Sullivan's brand new skyscrapers-the first ever built- set the standard for urban development across the globe. He and his successors, the world renowned architects that followed him, succeeded in creating a magnificent profile as awesome as the mythological Oz, as in "Wizard of…" written, not surprisingly, by Chicago native son L. Frank Baum.

The glory of the town is its spectacular buildings. Indeed, "the city is the museum" as an Architectural Institute of Chicago banner along the street proclaims.

To explore this magnificent "museum", start at the centrally located Hotel Inter-Continental at the corner of Illinois and Michigan (along the southern edge of the Magnificent Mile). Breakfast early in the hotel's fascinatingly wacky dining room -the style of which (late Camelot/early Crusades?) mystified me until I discovered it was originally a health club built by the Shriners.

Walk up Michigan Avenue past the historic Water Tower (the only building left from before the fire) to the John Hancock Building. By nine o'clock, the 94th floor viewing area opens. Not only is the view magnificent, but the exhibits are fascinating, and will answer your questions about the history and architecture of the city. There I learned the origin of the name "chicago"- a native American word for the "smelly wild onions" that flourished in the marshland where the city was built.

By ten, the trolleys are running and you can return to the Water Tower's Visitors Center to catch the trolley or double decker bus covering The Loop. Buy the flexible ticket, which will allow you to hop off at the Art Institute of Chicago. The Monets alone are worth the visit to this gorgeous museum even if you only spend half an hour there. If you have the time, treat yourself to a peek at the miniature rooms in the basement level. Lunch in one of the museum's pleasant dining rooms, then catch another trolley to continue your tour, leaving the trolley at the Chicago River at Wacker Street where the boat tours are launched.

This suggestion may be less than perfect for more leisurely travellers than I am, but if you have the stamina and want to cover more territory, skip lunch at the museum, take the trolley back to the Water Tower and walk up Michigan to the Drake Hotel (at least peek in), then cross over to Rush Street. Stop for lunch at one of the small restaurants in this stylish area. My favorite was Le Colonial, a Belle Epoque-style French/Vietnamese hybrid. Grab a cab to take you back down Michigan to the boat tours at the Chicago River Bridge at Wacker Street.

No matter how you get there, don't miss the opportunity to let the Architectural Foundation of Chicago educate and entertain you as you float out onto Lake Michigan for a stunning view of the skyline, then and up the river to get a close look at many of the city's significant buildings. If possible, take the Institute's "First Lady", the best of the many cruises offered at this location. If you miss the 3 o'clock, though, take the next boat at four or four thirty. Although the foundation boat is more interesting, don't miss the chance to enjoy the city by boat. Even without narration the sight of Chicago from the lake is breathtaking and the cruise worthwhile.

From the boat dock, it's only a short walk to Andy's at 11 East Hubbard Street. At this low key local bar that appears unchanged since the 1940's, you can sip on a cocktail while listening to local traditional jazz groups. When the show ends, head for one of the many terrific restaurants in the neighborhood. We ended up at a surprisingly wonderful Moroccan place, Tisi Milloul, having been overly optimistic about getting a table at star chef Rick Bayless's popular Frontera Grill. Other inticing choices in the same neighborhood include Zinnfandel, Spago, Vong, The Hudson Club, and Joe's Crab House.

At this point, I'm ready to call it a day, but if I could squeeze in one more sample of Chicago's goodies, I'd run down to either Jazz Showcase or House of Blues, two highly regarded music venues nearby, for the nine thirty show.

Of course, we've just scratched the surface of Chicago in one day, but have learned our way around and gotten an overview of this spectacular "museum". I hope you have several days to spend here. If so, plan on at least half a day for each of these excursions:

Oak Park
Frank Lloyd Wright's studio and the house where he and his family lived for twenty years. Get there via the Green Line train before the 10:50 tour of the house and studio. If possible, add the walking tour, also given by the Architectural Foundation, of other Wright houses on the same street, and take in his Unitarian Church downtown as well. See the small Hemingway Museum (Ernest was born and raised in Oak Park) a few blocks away from Wright's house.
Downtown Oak Park, near the train station, has many small shops and restaurants to explore if you can spend the whole day in this attractive little suburb.

Lincoln Park
Pay an afternoon visit to the zoo and conservatory at lively Lincoln Park followed by supper at the attractive French bistrot Mon Ami Gabi overlooking the gardens.

Hyde Park
Spend a morning at the Museum of Science and Industry making all kinds of wonderful discoveries. Did you know lipstick was made from pig products and the main ingredient of corrugated cardboard is corn? Don't leave without seeing the omnimax theater show in the museum. "Amazing Caves" thrilled me, but any other show in there surely would be amazing. Taxi to neighboring U. of Chicago campus to see Wright's famous Robie House.

Chicago Cultural Center
An interesting building in the Loop with several art exhibits and a 12:15 performance or lecture most days.

The Magnificant Mile
Shop til you drop in the best department stores in America: Neiman Marcus, Saks, Bloomingdales, Lord and Taylor, Marshall Field, Nordstrom's, Crate and Barrel, to mention just a few. Don't miss my favorite, Virgin Megastore, for global sounds. For unique off-the-beaten-path shops, you need to visit Wicker Park, but you need an extra day for that trip.

Navy Pier
We didn't get there, but it looks like fun. This is the place you see in the movies as the opening credits roll and the camera approaches Chicago by lake. The famous ferris wheel is here, and loads of tourist-oriented entertainment including dinner cruises, restaurants, and an imax theater. Next time!

A Perfect Day in New Orleans
with Vicki Hollingsworth

Guest contributor Vicki Hollingsworth resides in McComb, Mississippi and travels frequently with her husband Mark.

Mark and I were in New Orleans last weekend, and I think we failed on the travel assignment from "A Perfect Day". We love being down there so much that it's really hard for us to zero in on a time so limited, but we tried. We gained several lbs. trying more new (and old) restaurants. It was wonderful! A particularly good new one is AUGUST opened by chef John Besh. I believe he had Mike's on the Avenue, then Artesia on the north shore before this one. We also went to Susan Spicer's BAYONA which is one of our favorites, although she now has 2 more: Herbsaint and Cobalt in the new Monaco Hotel. We tried to have lunch there on Saturday, but the kitchen wasn't ready when we were (12:30). Not a good sign! We loved having lunch at Peristyle Friday. Its location isn't the best, but it was worth it. Chef Ann Kearney offers 2 choices for each of 3 courses for lunch (only on Friday) and they are wonderful. The plates are relatively small so the amount is just right. She and her husband moved down from Ohio and really have a following. We also strolled down Royal, around Jackson Square, then back up Chartres. The weather was beautiful and we had fun. It had probably been 30 years since we did anything like that. We stayed at MAISON ORLEANS which is in the building with the new Ritz (the old Maison Blanche building). It is a small hotel run as part of the Ritz and sharing its amenities, but not owned by it. It's more like an upscale B&B with antiques, hardwood floors, and rugs; tea, cocktails, breakfast, etc. are served in a "living/dining room" setting. And, it is in a wonderful location to walk to everything in the French Quarter.

Note from Moreton:
I want to add that my own favorite New Orleans retreat is tiny Maison du Ville on St. Anne, and I still love the old restaurants I know from childhood: Galatoire's, Antoine's and Brennan's. When I asked a New Orleanian friend to recommend a less expensive hotel with similar Old World charm, she steered me just a few blocks away to the Hotel Richelieu. I feel strongly that a trip to New Orleans would be less than perfect without staying in the wondrous old French Quarter. Take a carriage ride from Jackson Square to get your bearrings, then just stroll around this fascinating, and slightly raunchy part of the city. A warning: if your idea of perfection doesn't include a little raunchiness, avoid Bourbon Street by all means!

A Perfect Day in Santa Fe
with Vicki Hollingsworth

Guest contributor, Vicki Brown Hollingsworth, visited Santa Fe with her husband Mark in August 2001. This is Vicki's account of the trip.

Santa Fe, the "City of Holy Faith" is a charming old world city which sits on a quiet plateau at 7000 feet and has cast a magical spell on its visitors for centuries. It is beautiful, surrounded by mountains and their shadows, desert and adobes. the desert climate provides sunny days and cool nights. A renowned art center, Santa Fe has nurtured artisans who still display their textiles, paintings, carvings, jewelry, and baskets in the historic plaza district and the Canyon Road area. Its southwestern culture has resulted from a blending of Native Americans, Hispanics and Anglos.
Although the city is relatively small, there is much to see, so it would be best to have a plan to absorb as much as possible.

Here is our plan for "THE PERFECT DAY":

Staying downtown at the Inn of the Anasazi on Washington just off the plaza offers great proximity to the city's attractions. It is a small luxury hotel with southwestern decor, the staff is attentive and friendly, and the restaurant has outstanding ratings.

In order to appreciate Santa Fe's present, you probably need to understand its past. We recommend that you inquire ahead about the time of the first tour at the PALACE OF THE GOVERNORS on the Plaza, which has been the heart of the city since 1610. If you're saying several days, you may want to purchase the more economical pass which also includes admission to the Museum of Indian Artifacts and Culture, the Museum of Fine Arts and the Museum of International Folk Art.

After determining your tour time, begin the day with breakfast at CAFE PASQUALES (the legendary saint of cooking and hospitality) at 121 Don Gaspar Ave. The food is fresh and really good and the atmosphere, festive. It is located in the oldest free standing adobe in downtown Santa Fe. As this is a popular restaurant which does not take reservations, allow some time to wait for a table.

Hopefully, it has worked out so you will arrive now for your tour at the PALACE OF THE GOVERNORS. THE MUSEUM SHOP there is one of the best and offers a a variety of good quality merchandise. Plan to browse a little before heading on the THE GEORGIA O'KEEFFE GALLERY which is a few blocks away on Johnson St. and very interesting.

By now you may be ready to relax and lunch at THE COYOTE CAFE on Water Street. This popular and well known reataurant has a delightful open air rooftop cantina which serves Mexican fare and delicious margaritas made
with fresh lime juice and a good quality tequila. While in this area, be sure to check out the STEPHEN HUNECK GALLERY across the street which has really funny dog prints and the CHUCK JONES STUDIO GALLERY next door. Chuck was the Bugs Bunny animator, and his gallery was somewhat nostalgic and one
of our favorites.

It's time now to move on to the CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF SAINT FRANCIS OF ASSISSI which houses in a side chapel the oldest madonna in America "la Conquistadora" brought there in1625. You may remember reading about
Archbishop Jean Baptiste Lamy in Willa Cather's 1926 novel Death Comes for the Archbishop. Lamy, a Frenchman, inspired the cathedral with his love of Romanesque architecture.

Proceed to the JERALD PETERS GALLERY at 1011 Paseo de Peralta, a street encircling the downtown area. THE FENN and NEDRA MATTEUCCI GALLERIES are next door. Be sure to walk outside to see the fantastic lifesize bronze
sculptures, many of which are the outstanding creations of sculptor Glenna Goodacre. If time allows, you may want to explore any of the dozens of galleries on Canyon Road.

On returning downtown, it would be fun to stop in a the SENA PLAZA, a large compound which was once a hacienda and now houses shops and restaurants. Have a drink on the courtyard patio of the LA CASA SENA restaurant.

Our two favorite dinner choices would have to be the SANTA CAFE at 231 Washington, convenient to the Plaza, or GERONIMO at 724 Canyon Road. They are both excellent and serve American regional cuisine. Each is
decorated with an understated elegance and a simplicity which we found warm and enjoyable. Advance reservations are probably necessary, according to the season. Bon Appetit!

We were not able to attend THE SANTA FE OPERA as we wanted, because it is only open in July and part of August. We heard that all the seats were good, each having a small screen in front with the English titles so that you
knew what they were singing. The theater has no walls, only a roof, so you can see the mountains during the performance.

In the way of tips, remember that Santa Fe is in the desert so temperatures vary and can range from the 50's to the upper 90's. Be prepared for possible extremes. Be sure to pack sunscreen, sunglasses, comfortable walking shoes, an umbrella and a sunhat (optional). Everything in Santa Fe is very relaxed and casual. Earthy colors are big, as are long dresses, shorts, jeans and /or denim. At night people look "nice" but are not too "dressed up" as in a city. If you forget a basic, there is a "5 and Dime" on the Plaza and shops like Eddie Bauer, J. Crew and Talbot's on Lincoln. Some other favorites include GALISTEO on W. Marcy, AMERICAN COUNTRY COLLECTION and SIMPLY SANTA FE on the Plaza and SIGN OF THE PAMPERED MAIDEN.

We absolutely loved the charm and spirit of Santa Fe and cannot wait to return. My husband says next time we'll allow an extra day or two for golf and fly fishing in the Pecos Mountains

A Week inProvence

Moreton's adventures in Southern France, April 27-May 4, 2002

"When God created the sun, the earth, the mountains and seas, and put them in place, he realized that a little of each remained. He gathered the bits together to make a paradise and so was born Provence"-old French saying

Maudie Benz, Judith Teele, and I spent a week at the end of April, 2002, leading a small group of travelers in an exploration of western Provence, specifically the Bouche de Rhone and Vaucluse area. Our residence was Bastide Aux Deux Soeurs, a 17th century hunting lodge on the edge of the Alpilles Mountains surrounded by gardens, forests, and olive groves. Ten minutes away, the fashionable bistrots and shops of St. Remy awaited us, and the well-known 10th century hilltop village of Les Baux could be viewed just over the mountain edging the bastide's grounds.

Our days were filled with exploration of the history, landscape, food, and other inspirational qualities of Provence. Known to draw great artists and writers over centuries, Provence is a place to savor with an open heart and a healthy appetite for adventure, as well as for the amazing taste sensations of this gastronomic paradise. Our small group was designed for camaraderie and for a steady but relaxed pace that allowed full appreciation of one of the most enchantingly beautiful spots on earth.

It was my great privilege to be "food and wine guide" on the tour. My experiences traveling in France and managing Restaurant La Residence, whose menu featured many Provencal specialties, prepared me for this culinary adventure, and I thoroughly enjoyed sharing my excitement for the local cuisine. We shopped the open air village markets for improvised meals, and sampled the delightful wines of the region. We visited a vineyard and an olive oil press where we learned about the process of making these prized local products. Other pleasures included traditional meals in simple bistros as well as the creative fare of more luxurious restaurants. For me, the chance to sample Reine Saumat's cooking at La Feniere, one of Michelin Guide's most highly rated establishments and one I'd dreamed about for years, was an unforgettable thrill.

Each evening after a rest or time for the writers in the group to "capture the day's experience," the group gathered for a reading and workshop led by Maudy Benz, novelist and creative writing teacher at Duke University's Continuing Education. Maudie also offered an opportunity for each guest to take advantage of a one-on-one tutorial for guidance on the guest's work and suggestions for publishing opportunities. Though the readings were optional, everyone participated and enjoyed these discussions.

Our Provence Itinerary

Saturday

We picked up the guests at Marseilles (Marignane) airport. Aux Deux Soeurs is only a fifty minute drive up the Autoroute through "Cezanne Country" passing his favorite subject, Mt. Ste Victoire, as we passed Aix-en-Provence. After arriving at our serenely beautiful bastide ("country house"), we relaxed a few hours before enjoying a reception and a 4-course Provencal dinner cooked by Carolyn and Charles Hall, our gracious hosts and former London restaurateurs.

Sunday

We passed Daudet's legendary windmill at Fontvieille on the short drive to Arles. First stop was Montmajour, a magnificent tenth century Cisternian abbey on the edge of the Alpilles. Our intention was to visit the Museon d'Antiques Arles, but we were so intoxicated by the abbey, we spent some time just wandering and absorbing its spirit and magnificent views before heading to old Arles. There we strolled around the city passing the two thousand year old Roman arena, and amphitheater, Constantine's baths, and the quirky Musee Reattu. We lunched in the historic Hotel du Nord, the famous bullfighter hangout immortalized by Ernest Hemingway. As we left, voices of a chorale group practicing in the amphitheater and cheers from a bullfight in the arena reminded us that these ancient ruins are not just relics, but still a vital part of modern Arlesian culture.

After a rest and wine and cheese, we drove to St. Remy where we dined on the delicacies of Serge Gille-Noves at La Serre. When asked why he left behind his more prestigious restaurant in Paris for this tiny space in St. Remy, he echoed the Halls' (and Voltaire): "Here I can grow my own vegetables, and have a happy, peaceful life."

Monday

We crossed the Rhone River by "Good King Rene's" castle at Tarascon and drove through Uzes to St. Quentin du Poterie, the pottery center of Southern France. A multi-course lunch was served to us at the intimate La Table d'Horlage, high above the small village. After this decadent lunch, it was difficult to tear ourselves away from the old-fashioned roses, irises and geraniums in the Inn's garden to visit the pottery museum and studios of the artists who live and work there. Our next stop was the Pont du Gard. Photograghs cannot do justice to this awe-inspiring bridge, the largest remaining aqueduct in the former Roman Empire, and its stunning setting on the Gardon River.

Tuesday

We head northeast to the Luberon Mountain Range, lovingly described in Peter Mayle's books.Our first stop was the source of the Sorgue River, Fontaine du Vaucluse. We enjoyed a surprisingly inexpensive, but impressive lunch at Cafe Lou Fandau with its view of the river's startlingly clear water. After hiking to the source, we passed the magnificent vista overlooking the perched village of Gordes on the way to the Abbey of Senanque, surrounded by lavender fields and light-twinkling mountain forests with the bluest of blue skies above, an almost surreal setting.

The Michelin one-star Bistrot d'Eygaliere was our dinner destination, located in a nearby medieval perched village. Both the food and the ambiance of this simple restaurant, my favorite of the trip, perfectly embody the concept of "le chic rustique" for me.

Wednesday

The short drive from Aux Deux Soeur up the eery hills to Les Baux was an acrophobe's nightmare, but the reward was a stunning 360 degree view of the Bouche de Rhone area that took my breathe away. The "village morte" and the living village both had much more to offer than we could take in before heading to nearby Bistrot du Paradou for a "family style" lunch (four courses, naturally). On the way home we visited the olive press at Maussane, and the "cave" (wine cellar) at the vineyard of La Mas du Dames. Some of us returned to Les Baux for the fantastic Cathedrale d'Image located in a deserted bauxite mine while others returned to the bastide to rest or write.

Thursday

We changed our plans due to a soft but steady rainfall that would have prevented us from enjoying the outdoor cafes and calanque-viewing boatride scheduled for the Mediterranean port of Cassis. Some of us headed to the Camarque to view the rice fields, black bulls, white horses and shocking-pink flamengos of that flat region, the delta of the Rhone. The others stuck closer to home, enjoying Frederic Mistral's house-museum in Maulliane.

After lunch we drove to St. Remy to stroll around the ruins of ancient Glanum. Within walking distance was the asylum ( a lovely seventeenth century monastery with stunning gardens) where Van Gogh lived and painted for the final years of his life. Entering his tiny room with its view of sunflower fields and mountains in the distance was an uncanny experience. I felt as if I had stepped into one of his paintings.

That evening we were dazzled by another dinner prepared for us at "home" by Carolyn and Charles who were happy to answer all our questions about their cooking methods and Provencal ingredients.

Friday, May 3

Market day in Bonnieux beckoned us back to the Luberon. This time we headed west toward Lacoste, the sight of the castle of the Marquis de Sade across the valley from its neighbor Bonnieux, "the village in the clouds." After sampling cheeses, tapenade, eggplant caviar, quiches, olives, pannades, sausages, honeys, confits (preserves), and local wines, we trekked on to the famous La Feniere, chef Reine Saumut's luxurious rose-covered inn overlooking vineyards cascading down to the valley below.

After a rest at Aux Deux Soeurs we gathered to prepare a farewell supper from our market bounty.

The cost of the trip is $1900. Included are accommodations at Bastide Aux Deux Soeurs, all breakfasts there, wine and hors d'oeuvres served each evening at the bastide, four dinners (two by the talented Carolyn Hall, former owner of London's "The Pelican Restaurant") at the bastide, two lighter suppers concocted by Moreton and guests from the abundance of local outdoor markets, transportation to and from the airport, transportation each day to our destinations, and private tutorials taught by Maudie.

During the evening and breakfast gatherings, Moreton will introduce the history, culture, food and wines of the area. Maudy will share her knowledge of the writers and artists of Provence, and lead discussions at each evening's optional wine and cheese gathering. Guests are encouraged to bring their own work to read, or a passage by a favorite writer, if preferred, to share with the others.